MONDAY 15 DECEMBER, 2008 |
Feature: Wine Makers & Wineries in Austria - Sepp Moser
by W.S. Forster |
Allow me to hold a spotlight onto a wonderful family with a long tradition in
viticulture and a jewel-box of a winery to our readers: Sepp Moser.
My grandmother grew up in Rohrendorf and she used to tell me stories
about playing with the Moser children in their vineyards, so this is
very personal to me. I also invite you to try some of Niki Moser's biodynamically produced wines, such as the Zweigelt Reserve, or the Gruener Veltliner Gebling, one
of my favorite food matches of all times, or the exotic Beerenauslese from
Lake Neusiedel. Niki Mosers slightly sweet blend Muskat Saemling is featured in
the o-sechi ryori set.
I have borrowed freely from
Sepp Moser's new website.
Without a doubt, the most famous descendant of this family is the renowned viticulture pioneer Dr. Lenz Moser, who in the 1950s developed the high training system of the vine - the so-called “Lenz Moser system”. Through this, he made the work in the vineyards easier, not only in Austria, but also in many other wine-growing countries.
His twin sons, Laurenz und Sepp, took over the estate in the second half of the 20th century. They divided their tasks: Sepp Moser was in charge of cultivation of the vines; Laurenz Moser was responsible for wine vinification. The Lenz Moser winery had the reputation of being a pioneer, whose wines were exported to countries all over the globe. However, in the mid-1980s, nearly all of Austria´s export market collapsed due to the country´s “wine scandal”, and the Lenz Moser winery was faced with economic difficulties and, finally, had to be sold.
A new wine estate is born
As a consequence, Sepp Moser decided to go his own way. He reduced the number of family vineyards in Rohrendorf, in the Kremstal area, and in Apetlon at Lake Neusiedl, keeping only the best sites. Then he ambitiously dedicated himself to creating exquisite wines full of character from a new total of 33 hectares (82 acres) of vineyards. He also took over the Atrium House in Rohrendorf, where the Moser Family had once lived, and turned the home´s regular cellar into a wine cellar. Thus, in 1987, he founded the new estate “Sepp Moser”. It is one of Austria’s youngest estates, but at the same time, it looks back on 150 years of viticultural tradition.
Today, the enterprise is run by Sepp´s son, Nikolaus, who sticks to the structure established by his father and cultivates vineyards in Lower Austria as well as in Burgenland. After having completed his secondary education, Nikolaus Moser studied Wine Management in Krems, Austria, plus acquired valuable experience through several internships in Burgundy und Bordeaux. In 1991, Nikolaus began assisting his father in the enterprise, and in 2000 assumed complete responsibility.
Back to the Roots
Nikolaus Moser is devoted to regional wine growing, especially the expression of the soil in the two very diverse wine regions in which the Sepp Moser vineyards are located. And while he is also a viticultural pioneer, just like his grandfather had been, Niki Moser is now taking a very different direction. His grandfather tried to rationalize viniculture and adapt it to the modern times, but Niki´s focus is to cultivate healthy vines growing on balanced, vigorous soils. The Sepp Moser estate under the direction of Niki Moser is one of Austria’s first wine estates to have converted to biodynamic viniculture.
Niki Moser’s objective is not only to produce lively wines with a strong personality, but also to pass healthy soils as well as a maximum of knowledge and insight of nature on to his five children and the following generations.
Chronology
1140
Vineyards and cellar in Rohrendorf were owned by the Benediktinerabbey Ebersdorf
1142
The administrator of the winery is named Moser, a certified ancestor of the dynasty
1849
After abolition of serfdom, Anton Moser assumes possession of the winery
1951
Lenz Moser III presents the high training system („Hochkultur“) in Rohrendorf
1965
The Atriumhaus, today´s place of business, has been built
1987
Foundation of the Sepp Moser estate!
2000
Nikolaus Moser takes over the management of the winery.
In this year a state-of-the-art press house and cellar has been built
2006
Official move to certified biodynamic viticulture. (DEMETER)
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